Written by Nathan Gallahan
Thursday, 25 February 2010
Tanji Marmor | Day 18 – It felt like we were on a safari today and Afghanistan is gorgeous.
We rode with the German’s to a place named Tanji Marmor. A German commander went there to talk with the Afghan National Police chief about a bridge that was built there. Ken and I have been looking over at the mountains for days, and dreaming about visiting the place where the two mountains meet. There’s a small stream that runs between the two of them creating a footpath that is guarded by the ANP.
When the Soviet Union was occupying this country, this pass was the site of major battles between them and the Mujahadeen. The area is littered with old Soviet tanks and they sit as testaments to Afghanistan’s 30-plus years of
The ride out was scary. In some places, the roads were absolutely horrible. Our German driver was the only reason we made it through. We followed a long dirt road and passed by many Afghans. They had nothing more than their sheep or small gardens. I imagine the Afghan government and ISAF are at the bottom of their priority list, well below survival.
Before we made it into the mountains, the Afghans who lived on the flatlands lived in old tents you would expect to see in a movie. They looked almost nomadic. Then, as we entered the mountains, we started to see Afghans living out of caves. “Cave” is an inaccurate description though, because I always imagine caves as being created naturally. The Afghans dug holes in the side of cliffs to make them. I’ve always heard of people living like this, but today was the first time I had ever seen it. Unfortunately, since the windows were all muddy, and the road was all bouncy, I was unable to capture a good photo of them.
Most of Afghans looked at as curiously as we bounded past them. Ken and I tried to wave, but the windows were tinted to dark for them to see us.
Once we arrived at the ANP checkpoint, we jumped out and started shooting photos and video. With the German commander there were a few German police officers. This is where the real meat of today’s blog comes from. Everywhere I go I see all of these various organizations. I’ve seen EUPOL (European Police), German Police, United States Police, nongovernmental organizations, civilians, U.S. State Department, U.S. Aid, and others all helping Afghanistan.
When we were in the south, I didn’t see as many of these organizations, but as you travel to more secure areas, I see them more and more. One of the keys to progress here, would have to be the combination of effort between all of these organizations.
I had a chance to talk briefly with one of the German police officers and asked him what his experiences with the Afghan National Police have been like, and he told me that the ANP in this district were capable, but the ANP in other districts still have a way to go. The ANP police chief also mentioned this, attributing the lack of capability in other districts with the lack of proper training and equipment. He attributed the successes in his area directly to the training and mentoring they have received from the German police officers.
Time, training and material are quickly becoming a recurrent theme throughout my experiences. It seems to me the Afghans have the will, we just need to help provide the way.
Please go to their site "30 Days Through Afghanistan" for more information! Do you have a question(s) for them? Leave it in the comments section to get it answered. They have worked very hard on this, and will appreciate your feedback and support!
Don't forget the PHOTOS, they are awesome!!! I love their photos, which you can find here.
~MsMarti
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